Weaving Looms
Author: admin

DREAM WEAVING by dgladha
Watching the intricate design was an endless joy. The children’s pleasure at the golden letters even before they could work out the meaning was boundless. Somehow they were always pleasantly shocked by the sight of the mat: So delicate and so consummate the artistry of its weave.” – from “The Mats” by Francisco Arcellana
An initial glimpse of her designs will remind one of the islands, the lively colors seascapes merging with the intricate fabric woven carefully by the local weavers.
Her passion for textiles and the Filipino weavers’ original creativity have resulted in sublime art forms that transport the soul and the mind to some form of a dream.
Young British designer Rebecca von Gyer teamed up with regional producers from Ilocos Norte, Aklan, Bohol and Davao to experiment with the Philippines’ traditional hand-weaving embroidery and other creative applications of locally available materials.
Through the Design Residency Program of the Center for International Trade Expositions and Missions (CITEM) and The British Council, Rebecca assisted traditional Filipino weavers in developing designs for export quality products for the world market.
The resulting designs were featured in this year’s Manila F.A.M.E. International, the country’s premier exhibition in home furnishings, holiday decor and fashion accessories held in Manila twice a year.
“I went to the provinces and see what I can do then came back again to introduce new ideas, color ideas,” said Rebecca, who holds a degree in Textiles at Central Saint Martins in London and an MA in Constructed Textiles at the Royal College of Art.
“The available materials and the weaving techniques were all very individual. What I was able to do was help them in color and product range,” she added.
Under the Design Residency Programme, Rebecca worked with local weavers and came up with a full range of products hand-made from local materials such as abeliloco, abaca, raffia and piña.
She partnered with local companies in her product designs for cushions, bedspreads, mosquito nets, notebooks and garments.
Some of the companies she worked with were – Nagbacalan Loomweavers Multi-Purpose Coop, Inc. and Aida Fernandez in Ilocos Norte; LP Workers’ Association of Pandan, Bohol Kalidad Handicrafts, Tubigon Loomweavers Multi-Purpose Coop, Inabanga Loomweavers and Ely O. Monte Cottage Industry in Bohol; and Babatalias MNC, Astorga Handlooms Crafts and Tadeco Livelihood and Training Centre in Davao.
Other companies involved in the project were Manila-based companies namely, A Greeting Card Company, Evolve Designs, Marrieta’s Embroideries, Inc. and S.C. Viscarra, Inc. as well as exporters from Aklan such as Heritage Arts & Crafts, La Herminia Piña Weaving Industry and Dela Cruz House of Piña. The project was also supported by Coats Manila Bay, Living ‘n Style and Metropolitan Museum of Manila.
Having traveled to Okinawa and India where she did research on traditional crafts of dyeing and weaving as well as design fashion fabric range respectively, Rebecca said she took immense interest in the Philippine piña cloth, which she turned into mosquito nets and bedspreads with the help of local weavers.
“I enjoyed working with piña because it’s more indigenous and it’s unique to the Philippines.”
She said, however, that the material cost can be quite expensive and could push up the price of any products.
“I still think though that there’s a niche for these products because it’s unique. People can pay a certain amount if the design is different. If you’re doing the same thing year in and year out, buyers will never stay.
“But there’s room for expensive goods, if the design is good enough. That’s what I’m trying to do with the bedspreads and mosquito nets with piña.”
The only limitation for natural materials like piña, according to Rebecca, is the texture once it is turned into garments.
“It can be very stiff and you have to think of what fabric to line it with. But I’m very interested in using natural dyes in the Philippines especially with piña.”
The Special Setting at the lobby of the World Trade Center during the recent Manila F.A.M.E. was testament of Rebecca’s creative energy and the Filipino weavers’ original artistry.
Her bedspreads and mosquito nets from piña were draped over a wooden bed… on top of an antique table were note pads with woven covers made by A Greeting Card Company, that could inspire even Virginia Woolf.
“My intention is to look for ways to develop locally available materials into export products and not just into tacky tourist souvenirs. That’s why I think these three areas that should be constantly addressed – design, color and quality of the products,” said Rebecca.
The barong, for example, Rebecca says, could be developed further through new colors and design ideas.
Using piña, Rebecca worked on designs for hand-woven tops in elegant colors, which “people can actually wear on occasions and not just for the show.”
Among her designs were a hand-woven top with an embroidered cockfight design illustrated by Filipino artist Egat Trinidad melding local appeal and cultural sensibility and the special bead necklace by the Mandaya tribe attached on the neckline of a woven top.
Meanwhile, aside from redesigning Filipino weaving traditions, the CITEM and The British Council project was also meant to generate more jobs for the local folks.
Her residency program in the Philippines might be over but Rebecca said, “The Philippines definitely a country I’d like to come back to. Maybe next year if I get the funding, I can introduce new technology to the loom weavers.”
About the Author
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